Sunday, February 8, 2009

Spring Festival at Nan Guan Park (南管公园):

Nan Guan Park is one of the many reasons why I really like living in Dongzhimen and continue to put up with the high cost of housing there. This small park is located just west of the Russian Embassy (俄罗斯大使馆) and is a five minute walk from my apartment community.

A good part of Nan Guan Park is taken up by a shallow pool located in the middle of the park. The pool's bottom is lined with concrete. As the above photo shows, this pool is drained during the winter. That's too bad, as the water would be frozen solid from December through February and would make for a nice outdoor ice rink. The area off to the side of tree on the left part of the photo has some grass, old trees, and walking paths. There's also a large plaza and play area.

The plaza area has two large open spaces where people do ballroom dancing and hold aerobics classes both during the day and evening when the weather is warmer. As the photos below indicate, this part of the park also has lots of small concrete tables flanked by concrete pillars. Vine-covered concrete rafters vines span these pillars.

From mid-Spring through early Fall this part of the park is a very lively (很热闹) place indeed. But even in the middle of winter, during the day at least, you'll still find people out and about and enjoying themselves in the park. Most of them are older men: lots of retired (退休) people live in this neighborhood. The two chaps in the photo below are doing what many elderly Chinese men do in their spare time, namely playing “Go”, or Chinese encirclement chess (围棋).

Of course you can always find at least one group of people playing mahjong (麻将). The photos above and below were shot on second day of this year's Spring Festival (the one at the top of the post was taken last year).

During my stroll about the park that day, I did notice a game of cards, probably poker (扑克), being played at one of the tables. However, the light color of the table's concrete surface and bright sunlight made it impossible to take good photos of the cards being laid out. But I did get some decent shots of the fellow below, who was playing with special kind of yoyo. This yoyo went back and forth on the string connecting the two handles in this fellow's hands.

There were a few couples with small children strolling about the park. I noticed the little girl in the photo below while walking over to the park. Like me, this child and her parents were on their way to Nan Guan's southwest entrance. She looked really cute all bundled up in her pink wool cap (帽子) and scarf (围巾). I couldn't resist taking a shot this child and her parents were more than happy to let me photograph her. This little child struck and good pose and certainly appears to be a natural when it comes hamming it up! 非常非常可爱!

In a little a more than a month from now, the spring blooms will be out in Nan Guan Park. And with the better weather, a lot more of the locals will be enjoying this pleasant patch of greenery in central Beijing. I'll certainly be out there with my camera to record more of it.

The Chinese characters used in this post, along with their Romanized spelling (Pinyin) and tones are listed below. A number 1 indicates that the character has a flat tone, a number 2, a rising tone, a number 3, a falling rising tone, a number 4, a falling tone, and a number 5, a neutral tone.

南管公园 (nan2guan3gong1yuan2). The last two characters form the Mandarin word for “public park,” while the first is the word for “south.”
俄罗斯大使馆 (e2luo2si1da4shi4guan3). The first three characters for the Mandarin word for “Russia,” while the other three mean “embassy.”
很热闹 (hen3re4nao4).
退休 (tui4xiu1).
围棋 (wei2qi2).
麻将 (ma2jiang1).
扑克 (pu1ke4).
帽子 (mao4zi5).
围巾 (wei2jin1). This character pairing is yet another example of how Mandarin is a very logical language. By itself “围” means to surround/encircle, while “巾” means “cloth.”
非常非常可爱 (fei1chang2fei1chang2ke3ai4). Really, really adorable/cute/lovable.



Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Spring Festival Gifts and New Year's Money:

In addition to setting off lots of fireworks, eating plenty of dumplings (吃饺子), watching TV (看电视), and playing poker (扑克) and mahjong (麻将), Chinese people give each other gifts (礼物) during the Spring Festival. However, this gift giving differs from the kind of gift-giving that occurs back in the states around Christmas time.

The presents adults typically give to one another are depicted in the photo above. Yes, we're talking about fruit packaged in brightly colored boxes. This shot was taken in front of the small green-grocers shop near the Dongzhimen subway station that is a 10 minute walk south of my apartment community. I was on my way to the subway station when I noticed the boxes and decided to stop and take a picture of them.

While adults give each other fruit, children receive cash from their parents and older relatives. This money is called “New Year's cash” (压岁钱) or “lucky money.” I've read and been told that this practice dates back to an old Chinese folk legend. According to this legend, the money was used as a protective charm (护身符) to scare off a monster that tries to harm small children on the night before the Lunar New Year.

As time passed, this custom came to be seen as auspicious and lucky in other ways. In particular, the Chinese believed that people who give money will be very lucky (行大运) and more likely to become rich (发大财). Hence, the New Year's Cash is also called Lucky Money.

Chinese superstitions regarding numbers and colors are very much a part of Lucky Money gift giving tradition. Since red is seen as the most auspicious of all colors, the cash is given to the children in red envelopes. People also try very hard to ensure that the cash given is in crisp new bills. And the numbers on the bills also have to be in a rising sequence, so as to show that the recipient and giver's wealth and fortune will rise over time.

Finally, money is never given in denominations having the number four. Four (四) is a very inauspicious number because its pronunciation is quite similar to the Mandarin word for “death” (死). Both words are pronounced as “si”, which sounds kind of like an “s” sound, as in sing, followed by an “uh” sound. The only difference is that 四 is said in a falling tone, while 死 is said in a falling and rising tone.

Another interesting part of this custom is that children must give this money back to their parents if their mother gives birth to a new brother or sister within the New Year. The Chinese call this obligation 礼尚往来, which can be translated either as “courtesy demands reciprocity” or “what goes around, comes around.” Thanks to the one-child policy, this doesn't happen very much anymore.

Over the past few days, I asked a number of my Chinese friends what children here do with all their “lucky money”. As Chinese families become more affluent, the cash in those red envelopes often amounts to several thousand RMB. I wondered whether or not the children could freely spend these funds.

The answer everyone gave me to that question was “certainly not.” Rather than being spent, practically all of the “Lucky Money” is set aside and deposited in a real bank or secure piggy bank at home. The funds are then used to purchase school supplies and provide a fund for high school and, in many cases, university tuition (in China free universal education extends only through middle school [初中]; high schools [高中] charge tuition [学费]).

I really think the “Lucky Money” custom is something that should emulated in America during Christmas. I have to make a confession here: I've really come to loathe Christmas in my middle age. While I mainly resent all the contrived happiness that comes with season, I also find the whole gift-giving routine to be incredibly stressful. Since most American children, especially kids from affluent households who are often spoiled rotten as it is, already have everything, it's very difficult to buy them material things they will appreciate for any length of time.

By contrast, the Chinese “Lucky Money” custom teaches children some important lessons about life. Those who will be joined by a new sibling are taught the importance of reciprocity and how different generations should be obligated to help one another. And those who get to keep their money are taught at an early age the values of thrift and saving. In particular, they are told early on that it's better to defer immediate consumption and gratification in order to pay for things that will yield much bigger benefits over the long-term.

Indeed, if what my friends told me is anything to go on, China's young children do acquire something of a “saving mentality” early on. For example, when I asked them if Chinese kids resent not being able to quickly blow all their cash, they all told me that wasn't the case. Indeed, the children are typically quite happy to have this money set aside.

Thus Chinese people become militant savers at a very early age. I'll be talking more about this behavior and how it contrasts with Americans’ free-spending habits—well up to the latest recession that is—in a later blog post. Stay tuned!

The Chinese characters used in this post, along with their Romanized spelling (Pinyin) and tones are listed below. A number 1 indicates that the character has a flat tone, a number 2, a rising tone, a number 3, a falling rising tone, a number 4, a falling tone, and a number 5, a neutral tone.

吃饺子 (jiao3zi5). The first character is the Mandarin word for “eat,” while the other two characters is the word for “dumpling.” There are three kinds of 饺子: 水饺 (shui3jiao3), or boiled dumplings; 蒸饺 (zheng1jiao3), or steamed dumplings; and 锅贴 (guo3tie1), or pan-fried dumplings. The first character in the last category actually means pot/pan, while the second means to stick, so Chinese name is actually very similar to the name commonly given to these dumplings by American English speakers, i.e. “pot-stickers.”
看电视 (kan4dian4shi4). The first character means “watch” or “read.” The Chinese word for television combines the character for “power/electric power” (电) with the word for “vision” (视). Very logical!
扑克 (pu1ke4).
麻将 (ma1jiang1).
礼物 (li3wu4).
压岁钱 (ya1sui4qian2).
护身符 (hu4shen1fu2).
行大运 (xing2da4yun4).
发大财 (fa1da4cai2).
礼尚往来 (li3shang4wang3lai2).
初中 (chu1zhong1).
高中 (gao1zhong1).
学费 (xue2fei4).

Sunday, February 1, 2009

Chinese New Year's Debris




The above photos were shot in my apartment community's inner courtyard. Yes, all these tiny bits of paper and red plastic wrappings in the top two photos were from firecrackers (鞭炮) that had been lit during the previous evening(s). The bottom photo, of course, is all the boxes and garbage from the firecrackers, piled against the community's small guardhouse.

If last year's Spring Festival is any guide, this mess will be cleaned up quickly enough. But from January 25th through the end of the month, the firecracker wrappings literally covered the ground like shell casings from some fierce wartime battle. And during that week, my neighborhood sounded like a war-zone.

Actually, I really didn't mind the noise all that much. And the fact that so many people were setting off firecrackers in the courtyard and on the streets lent a distinctively disorganized Chinese air to the whole proceedings.

Moreover, the cold snap, which I wrote about in an earlier blog post, finally eased a bit on the evening of the 26th. I finished watching THE HOUSE OF FLYING DAGGERS (十面埋伏) a bit before midnight and went out to the enclosed balcony that off my master bedroom to watch the show (since the enclosed balcony's walls are very thin, it can be quite chilly during really cold weather).

I'm on the third floor, so I had a pretty view of the fireworks (焰火) exploding over the siheyuans (四合院) on the opposite side of the Dongzhimen Beixiao Jie. The show matched or exceeded any 4th of July celebration I have ever seen back in the states. And that’s really not surprising—the Chinese did, after all, invent gunpowder and firecrackers, so why should I have expected anything less than the spectacular?!

The Chinese characters used in this post, along with their Romanized spelling (Pinyin) and tones are listed below. A number 1 indicates that the character has a flat tone, a number 2, a rising tone, a number 3, a falling rising tone, a number 4, a falling tone, and a number 5, a neutral tone.

鞭炮 (bian1pao4).
十面埋伏 (shi2mian4li3fu2). These characters mean “10” (十), “face/sphere/area” (面), and, according to a Chinese friend, 埋伏 can be translated as ambush. In any case, the Chinese and English names for this Zhang Yi Mou (张艺谋) film are completely different.
焰火 (yan4hou3).
四合院 (si4he2yuan4).


Hutong/siheyuan urchins (小淘气)

When I did that Chinese New Year's Eve hutong/siheyuan walk, I didn't bring my camera along. Deciding to go there was done on the spur of the moment, and I was too lazy to go back to my apartment and get my camera. But since I'm on the subject of hutong/siheyuan life and haven't included any of my own photography in recent blog posts, here are some earlier photos of neighborhood children.

The little girl was sitting on the entrance steps of a Dongzhimen Beixiao Jie store across the street from my apartment complex. I think some fellows in that store or an adjacent one were playing mahjong (麻将). She was very into whatever it was she was doing and didn't notice me as I took her picture.

I shot this picture while walking along the Dongsi Bei Jie (东四北街) one October morning last fall. For some reason, many Chinese children and adults like to do the “V for Victory” sign when posing for us laowai photographers. The older girl, standing behind younger child making that sign was trying, without much success, to get the child on the left to pose for the shot.

This photo was taken last summer, about a month before the Olympic Games started. A good friend and old colleague from my Henan days, Jacqueline Baker, came to Beijing and stayed with me for a couple of days. We were walking toward the café, 喜鹊咖啡馆, that was mentioned in my December 1, 2008 blog post. These three children had just been playing a game and the little girl in the middle was clearly directing the activity. In China girls rule!!!

The Chinese characters used in this post, along with their Romanized spelling (Pinyin) and tones are listed below. A number 1 indicates that the character has a flat tone, a number 2, a rising tone, a number 3, a falling rising tone, a number 4, a falling tone, and a number 5, a neutral tone.

小淘气 (xiao3tao2qi4). Actually, this word has more of negative meaning, denoting a naughty child. I suspect that none of these children are very naughty.
麻将 (ma2jiang4).
东四北街 (dong1si4bei3jie1). The first characters mean “east” and “fourth”, while the last two mean “north” and “street.”
喜鹊咖啡馆 (xi3que4ka1fei1guan3). As was mentioned in the December 1, 2008 post, the first two characters mean “magpie”. While a Western person might not want to go to a place called “magpie coffee”—the third and fourth characters mean “coffee” and when combined with the last one, you have the Chinese word for coffee café—these birds are seen by Chinese people as being magical little critters. By contrast, Westerners see them as being thieving and obnoxious little critters.

Kids Playing Marbles in one of the Hutongs across the street from where I live:

The Spring Festival came early this year in China. The timing of this event is determined by the lunar calendar and it typically falls around the middle of February. In 2009, however, the Spring Festival began on January 26th. Three days before the holiday started, the temperature here plunged, as a cold front from Siberia hit Beijing.

This freezing weather was accompanied by strong, gusty winds. Lying in my bed before going to sleep, I could hear the wind howling and whistling in between the high rise apartment buildings in the neighborhood. I would be massively understating things to say that during those three mornings, the trek from my apartment to the bus stop and short walk to the office after getting off the bus wasn't a very pleasant experience.

It was still cold and windy when I returned home from the office on Saturday, January 25th to begin my week-long Spring Festival Holiday. I thus headed over to a warm place, namely the nearby Oriental Kenzo Shopping Mall, to have some lunch and then spend several hours drinking coffee and reading a book. I had planned on having an early dinner at one of the neighborhood’s two Russian restaurants—the Russian Embassy is a 10 minute walk from my apartment complex—before heading back to my warm apartment to spend the night unwinding with a beer or two and a DVD.

However, while returning from the mall to my apartment, I noticed that it had become a bit warmer. More importantly, the wind had died down. And since I had spent most of the past week sitting on my butt in front of the computer, it occurred to me that it would be really good to take a walk and get some exercise.

Fortunately, my immediate neighborhood is a wonderful place to stroll about. In particular, I love walking through the narrow hutong (胡同) alleys and siheyuans (四合院) that are across the street on the north side of the Dongzhimen Beixiaojie, or 东直门北小街 (up through the 1990s, the area south of this street was also all siheyuans and hutongs). I hardly ever see any other laowai walking about there, even though lots of us live in the Dongzhimen area. That's really a shame because the street life there is always very interesting.

This particular late afternoon-early evening was no exception, even though many of the residents had clearly gone back to their old hometowns (老家) for the Spring Festival (春节). Normally, these hutongs are filled with pedestrians at this hour; however, on this particular day, just a few cyclists and pedestrians were out and about.

Nonetheless, I did see three locals, all of whom were small children, doing something which made me want stop and observe them for a bit. And seeing them clearly having a lot of fun doing what they were doing caused me to think about their lives vs. the lives of more affluent children in the West and here in China.

The three kids—two boys and a girl—were no more than 10 years old (more on their age in a minute). The girl and one of the boys were rather chubby; the Chinese often call such children “小胖” or “little fatty.” Much of the time, this is actually a term of endearment, as if to say the child is very cute and lovable (很可爱).

These children, who were bundled up for the cold weather, were certainly very cute and lovable. They were playing a game of marbles. They had just two marbles, and both of the marbles were small and scruffy “cats-eye” marbles (I recall from my now very distant childhood that such marbles weren't highly prized, particularly compared to big and bright “purie” marbles). They rolled the marbles down the alley and on to the sand and dirt near the adjacent siheyuan's outer wall and entrance.

Even though these kids had the simplest of toys, they were clearly have a wonderful time, running back and forth, talking in animated voices, and laughing loudly all the while. I stopped and watched them for a few minutes. Before leaving the scene, during a pause in their activity, I asked the girl, “你几岁?” (How are old are you?) She replied in English, “nine.” And when I told her, “你们都很可爱,” (you are all very cute/lovable), she again replied in English by saying “thank you.”

The families who live in these siheyuans are clearly not at all affluent. In fact, they're what the Chinese call 老百姓. Literally translated it means “old hundred names,” but it's really an idiomatic term for very ordinary people. Since there are only around 100 old family names in China—刘, 陈, 曾, 李, and the like—common folks who are neither well off nor really poor are called 老百姓.

After resuming my stroll through the hutongs, I thought some about the contrast between these children and kids from affluent families in the West and here in China. Unlike these siheyuan children, the latter have all kinds of toys and gadgets—game boys, palm pilots, you name it. They also typically have lots of cash to blow at the mall. Yet despite having all these things, many of them are bored and unhappy and lead fairly empty lives. I would bet that the trio I bumped into that day are more content and happier than most of their materially better off counterparts in both China and the West.

Now I don't for one minute want to glamorize siheyuan life. To be sure, there are some very nice siheyuans near the Confucian Temple on the 国子监 not too far from where I live in Dongzhimen. Indeed, such places have now become upscale housing for rich Chinese people and laowai. However, most of these structures are very cramped and have little privacy. And they also typically lack central heating and, in many cases, indoor plumbing as well.

It's thus not at all surprising that many young people prefer living in newer apartment buildings. For example, one evening my neighbors across the hall in my apartment community invited me over for tea and watermelon. They had several foreign visitors staying with them for a few days and wanted some translation help. We talked for several hours and they told me what the immediate area used to look like. Although the husband and wife clearly missed living in the old siheyuan, their teenage daughter, who is a cute and very pleasant young lady, said that she preferred their new digs.

As China continues to develop and modernize at a rapid pace, it faces many social challenges. As I see it, one of the biggest social challenges will be striking a balance between obtaining Western style affluence and avoiding some of the bad things that go with it. In the meantime I look forward to more strolls around those hutongs and siheyuan across the street.

The Chinese characters used in this post, along with their Romanized spelling (Pinyin) and tones are listed below. A number 1 indicates that the character has a flat tone, a number 2, a rising tone, a number 3, a falling rising tone, a number 4, a falling tone, and a number 5, a neutral tone.

胡同 (hu2tong2).
四合院 (si4he2yuan4) These characters literally mean “courtyard house.”
东直门北小街 (dong1zhi2men2bei3xiao3jie1).
老家 (lao3jia1).
春节 (chun1jie2).
小胖 (xiao3pang4).
很可爱 (hen3ke3ai4).
你几岁 (ni3ji3sui4).
老百姓 (lao3bai3xing4).
刘 (liu2).
陈 (chen2).
曾 (zeng1).
李 (li3).
国子监 (guo2zi3jian1).

Thursday, January 22, 2009

China's response to the crisis: Will we all be soon speaking Chinese (我们快能用汉语说话了吗?)?

China's current leaders may not be warm and cuddly fellows, but when it comes to economic and social policy, they manage, more often than not, to do the right thing. This includes fairly recent reversals of some very bad policies enacted during the 1990s by the country's previous leadership. And now, in order to respond to the current economic crisis, China will institute a massive stimulus package that dwarfs what is being proposed by the Obama (奥巴马) administration.

After China's economic growth (经济增长) slowed dramatically last fall, the Government announced that it would spend an estimated 4 trillion RMB, or $586 billion, over the upcoming year on a wide variety of infrastructure and social welfare projects. That's an enormous sum for any country, but especially for one whose GDP is still less than half that of the United States. And that figure has more recently gone up to over $800 billion.

I should say a brief word or two about how economists typically go about comparing the GDPs of different countries, as it's not as simple a matter as one might think. You could, of course, calculate China's GDP in dollars simply by using the current dollar-RMB exchange rate. If that's done, the country's GDP amounts to $3.3 trillion.

However, this approach overlooks the fact that the cost of living here, particularly for non-traded services, is much lower than it is in the US. For example getting a haircut in the next door hair salon costs me 15 RMB, or just under $3 at the current exchange rate (back in Henan, I spent under 10 RMB). In the US even a basic, no-frills haircut costs at least $11-12. Failing to take such price differences into account seriously understates Chinese living standards and, by extension, the country's GDP.

International economists adjust for such differences by using the so-called purchasing power parity (PPP) formula. This idea takes into account the lower cost of living and adjusts it as if all income is spent on local goods.

Thus the long-run PPP equilibrium exchange rates between currencies will often differ from their short-term nominal rates. In fact, when viewed in this way, the RMB remains substantially undervalued—perhaps by as much as 50 percent—against the greenback, even after its recent appreciation. According to information I shagged off the internet, calculating China's GDP using a PPP approach, just about doubles the above figure, to $7.1 trillion.

So it can be inferred from all of this that China’s GDP is probably higher than $3.3 trillion. Of course, PPP is a long-run theory. Moreover, Chinese wages are also much lower than in the US and other developed economies.

Finally, one should also be cautious about the official Chinese economic data. For example, I recall hearing a year or so ago the government suddenly announce that it had underestimated the size of the retail sector. Anyone who lives here can't help but notice all of the small mom and pop stores, little restaurants, and the like in Beijing and other Chinese cities. Thus China's retail sector certainly is enormous. So after the State Planning Commission re-calculated its size, it substantially boosted its estimate of China's GDP.

So China's GDP is probably somewhere between $3.3 and $7.1 trillion. But even if we accept the latter high figure, the Chinese stimulus package is still much greater relative to the national economy than the one being proposed by Obama. The $800 billion plus that will be spent next year represents over 10% of China’s GDP. By contrast, Obama’s $800 billion stimulus package—it may get a bit larger over the next few months—is spread out over the next two years and accounts for just 2.5-3.0% of the US economy's estimated $14 trillion plus GDP.

To be sure, some economists argue that the $800 billion figure for China's stimulus package is a bit high, noting that some of this spending was already in the budget. However, shaving a $100 billion or so off the Chinese spending figure still leaves China's stimulus package much bigger than the US stimulus package when measured against the size of its economy.

Moreover, payroll and business tax cuts account for a good chunk of the Obama stimulus package. In fact, word has it that funds for mass transportation projects, which American could desperately use more of, is being reduced to make room for these tax cuts.

The problem with doing this is twofold. First, there's no guarantee that people will spend these tax cuts or rebates. In fact, given the uncertainty about employment, better off consumers are more likely to save this extra cash for a rainy day, rather than spend it. And with consumers reluctant to buy things, especially expensive big-ticket items, it's unlikely that businesses will use their tax breaks to expand production by hiring more workers.

China's stimulus package, on the other hand, is driven entirely by government spending. While much of this money will be spent on infrastructure projects—expanded subways, railways, bridges, airports, and the like—some of the funds will be spent on social welfare projects. In particular, the government has made continuing to improve rural health care a key priority (a major effort to do this was started a few years ago as part of the “New Socialist Countryside” initiative [社会主义新农村]).

Compared to the US, the Chinese Government has several key things going for it in its efforts to stimulate its economy. To start with, even though tax revenues have fallen rapidly since this fall, China's national debt remains small, particularly compared to America's. Since the latter ballooned during the last eight years, mainly on account of tax cuts, the Iraq War, and big increases in overall defense spending, Louis XV’s famous comment, “Apres Moi L'Deluge,” is a fitting epitaph for George W. Bush's Presidency.

Not only is the Chinese Government in a better position than its American counterpart to spend money, it also has, when it comes to building infrastructure, a lot more “shovel ready” projects on which money can be spent. For example, here in Beijing work will be accelerated on three new subway lines being built within the city. The same goes for several lines that will connect Beijing with outlying cities, such as Changping.

Recent historical experience suggests that spending money on these projects will help boost China's economy. After the 1997 Asian financial crisis broke out, the Chinese Government earmarked large sums to accelerate construction of the country's huge highway and toll road system. This move is seen as playing a large role in maintaining economic growth in 1998 and 1999.

The Chinese Government also has much more leverage in the monetary policy area. Indeed, as recently as last summer, China's Central Bank (中央银行) was raising interest rates in an effort to cool down the economy. Now that it has confronted, practically overnight, the opposite problem, the Central Bank has significantly reversed course. However, according to one article I shagged off the internet, monetary policy here is still just “moderately loose” and thus still has some traction.

By contrast, the Fed in the US has cut interest rates to practically zero, so it can't lower borrowing costs any further. But despite these efforts and the rapid increase in America's money supply, banks are still reluctant to loan money and credit remains scarce. In other words, the Fed is pretty much shooting blanks at the moment.

Moreover, the fact that banks in China are state controlled gives the government enormous leverage over the financial system. For example, before the current crisis broke out, China's Central Bank required banks to hand over nearly 1/5 of their deposits. The Central Bank used this money to buy foreign bonds, especially US Treasury Bills, in order to prevent the RMB from appreciating and harming Chinese exporters.

Now, however, China's Central Bank is reducing these long-standing requirements on Chinese banks. It is instead pushing them to lend more money within China. In particular, banks are being ordered make more loans to small and medium-sized industries—precisely the ones that have been hardest hit by the downturn in exports.

America's recent banking bailout provides the US Government with the opportunity to exercise similar leverage over the financial system. The US Government could now, as Roosevelt did during the height of Great Depression, when a third of the banking system had effectively been nationalized, demand that financial institutions lend money in return for receiving help from Washington. Of course the Bush Administration resisted, mainly for ideological reasons, any attempt to tie strings to its $700 billion TARP bailout plan. Hopefully, Obama will reverse course here.

To be sure, Obama will face intense political pressure to limit the size of his fiscal stimulus plan in the face of long-term fears regarding US budgets deficits and rising national debt. However, the US Government does have one remaining trump card to play here, namely the continued willingness of foreigners to loan money to the US. While China's appetite for US debt appears to be diminishing—readers can refer to Keith Bradsher’s excellent January 8th NEW YORK TIMES article on this matter—investors in the troubled Euro zone are still eager to snap up US Treasury Bonds and securities.

The fact that the US is able to continue to find foreign lenders for its debt is one thing setting it apart from Asian countries in the late 1990s, Argentina in 2000, and the new financial basket cases on the euro-zone's periphery, Ukraine and Latvia. Another key difference is that unlike these countries, the US debt is denominated in its own currency. Thus a falling greenback, which would boost American exports and stimulate the economy, will not increase the size of the US debt.

America's budget deficits will certainly have to be addressed some time in the future. Continued large-scale borrow from foreign lenders also will also undermine the dollar’s position as a reserve currency over the long-run. However, at the present moment, the greenback is actually appreciating against other currencies.

Indeed, as former IMF chief economist and now Harvard Professor Ken Rogoff puts it, with more than a little touch of gallows humor, “The more we screw up, the more the world seems to like us.” And long before this financial crisis, my former UCLA colleague turned chaired Harvard professor, Jeff Frieden, argued that the dollar's future as a main reserve currency is uncertain at best (this outstanding scholar and all-around mensch's musings on the latest crisis can be accessed at http://www.bigthink.com/user/jeff-frieden). Finally, addressing America's immediate and very severe economic crisis should now have priority over long-term worries regarding the dollar's future as an international currency.

Thus Obama should emulate China's boldness when it comes to devising a stimulus plan for the US economy. As his own chief economic adviser, Larry Summers, has declared, “In this crisis, doing too little poses a greater risk than doing too much.”

Even though the US doesn't have all that many “shovel ready” infrastructure projects to spend money on at the moment, a strong case can certainly be made for long-term spending in this area. And over the short-term, money could go to help people in need, particularly ones who've lost health insurance, and assist America's financially strapped states.

Indeed, as I write these words, my home state of California faces a $41 billion deficit, or half of the state's total annual revenues. In a very short time, California will literally go broke and unable to pay its bills. The tax increases and spending cuts needed to close this gap certainly won't do Golden State's economy, which already has one of the highest unemployment rates in America, any good.

I suspect that if Obama errs on the side of caution while China forges boldly ahead with its economic stimulus, then the long American Century will give way sooner rather than later to the Chinese Century. I want to emphasize that such a prospect doesn't disturb me as much as it might disturb other Americans. But if it does happen, all of us might want to begin learning a bit of 汉语. Or, as was asked in the title for this post, 我们快能用汉语说话了吗?

The Chinese characters used in this post, along with their Romanized spelling (Pinyin) and tones are listed below. A number 1 indicates that the character has a flat tone, a number 2, a rising tone, a number 3, a falling rising tone, a number 4, a falling tone, and a number 5, a neutral tone.

我们快能用汉语说话了吗 (wo3men1kuai4neng2yong4han4yu3shuo1hua4le5ma5).
奥巴马 (ao4ba5ma3) Save for the fact that the first character, 奥, is pronounced like the “ou” in “ouch,” this is actually a pretty good transliteration of “Obama.” It's certainly better the Chinese characters for President Bush's last name, 布什, which sounds like “Boo Sure.” The senior is Bush is just called 老布什, or literally “old Bush.”
经济增长 (jing1ji4zeng1zhang3) The first two characters mean “economy” while the other two mean “growth” (in this kind of sentence).
社会主义新农村 (she4hui4zhu3yi4xin1nong2cun2) The first four characters comprise the Chinese word for “socialism”, while the fifth character means “new”. The last two characters can mean both “countryside” and “rural/farming village.”
Apres Moi L'Deluge: My historically knowledgeable readers—and those who can speak some French—will know that this statement in English is “After me, the Deluge.” Louis XV wasn't much of a monarch, but he could see pretty clearly the direction France was heading after his death. Epitaph in Chinese is 墓志铭 (mu4zhi4ming2).
中央银行 (zhong1yang1yin2hang2) The first two characters is one way of saying “central” in Chinese, while the latter two is the Chinese word for “bank.”

I'd like thank my good colleague (同事; tong2shi4), 姚玲玲 (yao2ling2ling2) and 路红艳 (lu4hong2yan4) for helping me with some of the above vocabulary.

Sunday, January 11, 2009

How is China affected by the economic crisis (经济危机)?

My readers who follow the economic headlines know full well that like the rest of the world, China has been greatly affected by the current global economic and financial crisis (财政危机). Economic growth, which had been averaging churning along at double-digit rates over the past few years, has slowed dramatically. It's estimated that China's economy will expand by no more than 7% in 2009. And more and more forecasts call for significantly lower growth.

Americans would be delighted if the US economy, which contracted during the last two quarters and is expected to shrink through the first half of 2009, was expanding at a 5-7% annual clip. However, the 7% growth figure is something of a critical number here in China. Economists have argued that unless the Chinese economy grows by at least 7% every year, it won't be able to provide jobs for all the new people entering the labor.

My own first hand observations, particularly the stories I hear from Chinese friends, tells me that the job market here has indeed deteriorated significantly for new entrants to the labor market. The sophomore students I taught two years ago at the Second Beijing Foreign Languages University (二外) are now looking for work. While most of them have had at least a few interviews, very few have found jobs. And we're now moving past the first peak hiring season, i.e. the late fall and early winter (the other is the early spring).

Many of my former 二外 students majored in finance. These job-hunters are having an especially hard time finding positions. They're all naturally keen to find positions in banks and other financial businesses like security and brokerage firms. However, very few of these companies are hiring people at the moment; indeed, many are getting rid of staff (more on that below).

However, university students who majored in technical fields are also scrambling to find work. One of my good Chinese friends works at a sister company—both our firms are China National Petroleum Company subsidiaries (分公司) doing bore-hole and well testing and servicing work—as a recruiter in their HR (人力资源) department. My friend said that they were swamped with applicants at job fairs this fall.

I spent much of last week helping to do English assessments on job candidates for my company. For readers wondering about this, our firm's clients are all foreign clients, and the language of the international oil business is, of course, English. Hence anyone hired here must be able to speak at least intermediate level English. Most of our recruits were completing their M.S. degrees from the China National Petroleum University (a few were completing doctoral degrees). This place is the country's top institution for studying petrology, petroleum engineering, and the like. One of the people we interviewed told us that many of his classmates were having difficulty finding jobs, despite their high-powered educational backgrounds.

China's manufacturing industries that depended heavily on exports (出口) to the US have certainly been hard hit by the sharp downturn in the American economy. Scores of small toy (玩具) factories (工厂) in Guangdong province have gone bankrupt (破产). And lots of what are called 农民工—factory workers from small villages who leave their families to live in cities without permanent residence permits—have lost their jobs (失业了). These men are returning home early for the Spring Festival.

The crisis has affected not just manufacturers, but the banking and financial sector as well. A very good Chinese friend of mine works at Hong Kong Shanghai Commercial Bank (HSBC), which is one of China's leading commercial and investment banks. She recently informed me that HSBC's Hong Kong Branch has shed some 10,000 employees.

My friend told me that HSBC had invested heavily in Australian securities. The bank thus lost lots of money when the Aussie $ plunged, causing the value of these Aussie $ denominated assets to fall sharply. My friend added that HSBC also had some money invested in Madoff's funds. It looks like this swindler's tentacles reached very far and wide indeed.

Thanks to the problems in the financial sector and a bearish stock market—the latter downturn preceded the crisis in the US—many urban middle class Chinese people have seen their nest eggs dwindle. My friend at HSBC, for example, has seen the value of her savings' stock portfolio has shrunk by more than half, from 70,000 to 30,000 RMB (at the current exchange rate, that's $10,250 to $4,400).

In the past few years, buying property has become an attractive investment strategy for middle- and upper-middle class Chinese city-dwellers. Housing prices have risen sharply in Beijing and other big cities over the past decade. For example, the Irish lawyer, Diarmuid O’Brien, who got me the tickets to the Olympic Basketball games, bought an apartment in Beijing's exclusive Central Business District (国贸) area. The apartment's market value has risen several times over this period, and Diarmuid was getting lots of calls or sms mobile phone message every day from people interested in buying the place.

It now appears that this long run-up in property asset values is coming to an end. People who thought that housing prices would keep rising forever are learning the hard way that in the investment (投资) world, when asset prices skyrocket, they often come back down to earth a bit. Indeed, THE ECONOMIST ran a story late last year about apartment prices falling from 15,000 RMB per square to 9,000 RMB per square meter in an exclusive Hai Dian District apartment community. The angry buyers sued the developers over this sudden collapse in the value of their properties.

A fellow laowai colleague at the company I work for named John Gormican is married to a Chinese woman, Rebecca, who has a real estate business. When I sent him an IM about THE ECONOMIST story the other day, he replied that yes, his wife had heard many similar stories. John added that they “were expecting it to be slow after Olympic Games, but not like this.”

Rebecca is lucky. Her business is a one-woman show, which she runs from out of her apartment. Since Rebecca's overhead is absolutely minimal, she won't have a lot of problems weathering this downturn. The same, however, can't be said large big real estate companies. John anticipates that many of them will soon be facing big problems.

The economic slowdown is also affecting foreign companies. I have a Chinese friend who works at another integrated well services provider, the French giant Schlumberger, the second largest firm in the business after Halliburton. She informed me several weeks ago, when we were exchanging IM's, that Schlumberger recently moved out of its old China corporate headquarters in the expensive Lido area near the Holiday Inn. They did so mainly to cut back on costs.

Schlumberger's new headquarters—or “operations base” as they now call it—is located in an old factory building converted into an office space. The new digs are not only fairly crummy, but also very hard to find. My friend told me that visiting client spent over an hour trying to locate this place and was not very happy about that.

One of my laowai friends living in Shanghai has a boyfriend who is an engineer in GM's China operations. She informs me that GM has, is or will be stopping production altogether or cutting it “way down” for two weeks here. VW, the biggest foreign car manufacturer in China, is supposedly doing the same.

Even the IT sector is being affected by the current economic problems. One of my Chinese friends, a very pretty and delightful young lady, is a software engineer at a Japanese IT firm. During a recent night out, she informed me that recently business has been really slow at her company, so she isn't very busy and has a lot of down time at work.

Lastly, as one would expect during an economic crunch, the hospitality business is really suffering at the moment. I have breakfast once or twice a month at Paul's Steak and Eggs restaurant. This place is very popular with Beijing's expat community, and I enjoy hearing the patrons, as well as the owner, a French-Canadian named Paul, chat about business conditions in the capital. During my last visit on January 3, I overheard Paul noting that the occupancy rate at the luxury Ritz-Carlton Hotel is now just 15%. The Ritz Carlton and several other luxury hotels have fired their executive chefs.

The current problems in the hotel business are exacerbated by the overbuilding that took during the run-up to the Olympic Games. This surplus capacity is especially severe in the high-end housing area. Lots of luxury full-service apartments and other less expensive but still arguably upscale housing, built to accommodate wealthy tourists and business guests coming to Beijing for the Olympics, now stands vacant.

However, the glut in high end housing and the overall drop in apartment prices can also be seen as a silver lining in Beijing and China's overall cloudy economy. Laowai and Chinese people who hold on to their jobs or are even lucky enough to get better paying positions, will be able, for the first time in recent memory, to find nice housing at relatively affordable prices.

Finally, a few people I know have remained unaffected by the economic downturn. One of my Chinese friends is an HR consultant at Hewlett Packard—yes, they have an HR consulting branch here in China. She does lots of work advising state owned enterprises and was recently put in charge of a big project near Xinzheng City in Henan Province (I spent my first year in China living in Xinzheng City). This lady informed me that business remains brisk and they were paid their usual annual Christmas bonus this year.

Throughout the first half of last year, many people speculated that China and India might somehow get “decoupled” from the brewing global economic crisis (THE ECONOMIST magazine was a prominent proponent of this view). It now looks like such thinking will have to be put on ice. China will definitely feel some economic pain over the next year. The good news for the country is that it's arguably in a much better position to respond to the crunch than is the US. I'll have more to say on that in my next post.

经济危机 (jing1ji4wei1ji1). 经济 is economy or economic, while 危机 is crisis.
财政危机 (cai2zheng4wei1ji1). 财政 is financial (another word for financial is 财金 [cai2jin1]).
二外 (er4wai4).
人力资源 (ren2li4zi1yuan2). 人力 literally means “human power,” while 资源 means resource(s).
分公司 (fen1gong1si1).
出口 (chu1kou3).
玩具 (wan2ju4).
工厂 (gong1chang3).
破产 (po4chan3).
失业了 (shi1ye4le5).
投资 (tou2zi1).
地产 (di4chan3).
国贸 (guo2mao4).